As same as Adafruit’s original TV-B-Gone kit, my modified TV-B-Gone_JeonLab accepts any DC power source within 3-5V. The micro-controller, ATtiny85V, runs within 1.8-5.5V, but the IR LEDs consumes more power than the micro-controller, you need to keep the source voltage at least 3V.
Adafruit includes 2 AA battery holder in their kit, but I will not include any battery holder or connector in my kit in order to give more flexibility of choice of power source. As long as the voltage of the source is within 3-5.5V, any battery or supercap can be used. For example, 2-3 AA or AAA alkaline batteries, 3-4 rechargeable batteries like NiCd or NiMH, Li-ion (or Li-PO) rechargeable batteries or 2 of 2.5V (0r 2.7V) supercap (at least 10F).
As I mentioned a few times before, I like supercaps. Even though they can not hold much charge compared to batteries, they can be charged quickly (less than a minute) through USB or 5V wall adapter and small and light. So I decided to attach two supercaps to my TV-B-Gone_JeonLab, but I wanted to compare the sizes of 4 and 2 AA battery holder and AAA batteries.
The actual size of my modified PCB is slightly smaller than Adafruit’s which fits nicely at the back of 2 AA battery holder. Anyway, I figured someone would be interested in having supercaps as a power source and here is how I did.
First thing I did was to attach a male header a guide (plastic piece on one side) for assuring correct polarity of connection.
With one full charge (about one minute), I could turn one of my TVs on and off more than 40 times from about 6.5m (21 feet) away. Of course I used STOP button right after it turned on (or off) the TV. It does save power!
If you want to buy the kit (without supercap or battery holder), PCB, or firmware loaded ATtiny85V or any combination, email me for a quote.