Assembling JeonLab mini v1.3

First of all, let’s see how the top and the bottom look like.
JeonLab mini v1.3 top
JeonLab mini v1.3 bottom

1. Attach 3 resistors and a capacitor: solder 2 of 1k ohm (brown-black-red-gold) resistors and 1 of 10k ohm (brown-black-orange-gold) resistor and 0.1uF ceramic capacitor (need to bend legs) where they are marked on the bottom
JeonLab mini v1.3 bottom parts soldered

2. Flip it over, put the 28-pin DIP socket (socket only while you are soldering, DO NOT insert the ATmega328p yet), the ceramic resonator (3 legs, 16MHz, with built-in capacitors), and 2 LEDs (color doesn’t matter: green for Power and red for d13 or other way. It’s your choice) on the top layer and solder them.
JeonLab mini v1.3 28-pin dip socket and resonator soldered

JeonLab mini v1.3 LEDs and resonator soldered

3. Now it’s time to attach male headers (Note: Depending on your project or your preference, you can put female headers or simply solder wires directly to the holes or right angle headers or whatever :-).
In order to solder the headers nicely (perpendicular to the PCB), you can use breadboard to support headers.
JeonLab mini v1.3 header solder prepare 1

JeonLab mini v1.3 header solder prepare 2

And then, put the PCB on top of the headers and solder them.
JeonLab mini v1.3 soldering header

Lastly, insert the ATmega328p into the socket.
JeonLab mini v1.3 assembled 2

That’s it! Now it is ready to use.
So simple, isn’t it?

Even though pin numbers and names and PWM(~) signs are printed next to their pins, due to their small sizes, it is really hard to see with bare eyes. So I marked with black permanent marker on the side of the PCB around the FTDI pins and between the digital pins and analog pins on the other side as shown below. It really helps!

FTDI pins (DTR-RX-TX-5V-nc-GND)
JeonLab mini v1.3 black mark FTDI

JeonLab mini v1.3 black mark power

Have any questions? Please leave comments.
Want to buy one? Please visit SHOP.


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